Making Gesso - RSG & Whiting

Welcome to the forum.

Here you can discuss all things art with like-minded artists, join regular painting challenges, ask questions, buy and sell art materials and much more.

Make sure you sign in or register to join the discussions.

Hang on Studio Wall
Showing page 2 of 2
Message
OK, last instalment from me on this subject.  This is a somewhat easier method of making gesso, though bear in mind that he doesn't recommend using it on canvas because it isn't flexible enough. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1xHJ90Gx4B8

This post has been removed as it violates our forum rules and guidelines.

This post has been reported, largely on the grounds of it being a response to a very old thread.   It doesn't seem to add to it - on the other hand, it doesn't seem to be problematic either!  So - any questions?  I don't see any reason to remove it - if we removed things on the grounds of age, few of us   would survive;  does anyone here use traditional gesso?  I don't, so - haven't any questions; but Alan Bickley?  You were educated in traditional media: any thoughts?  
Ah - it's gorn!  Oh well..... !
My apologies Robert I removed it as it had been reported , but I do see your point and won’t be so quick fingered next time.
I saw both of this persons replies earlier in the day, but decided to let them run. They didn’t add anything of value, as my learned colleague has already pointed out, but neither were they offensive in any way. And, they can act as a catalyst for further conversation… as has happened here. However, one of team has decided that they must go! Anyway, we carry on regardless and onto the enthralling and interesting topic of gesso… I’ve not used the traditional gesso as such, I believe that there are several, if not more ways of making it. Seago mixed up his own gesso using rabbit skin glue (RSG) and white lead, maybe some thickening agent as well, I’d have to check on that, in a pot on the stove no less. Dangerous would be an understatement! Obviously we can’t get the lead anymore and only a fool would go down that route, so I’ve never painted on a ground coated with the real stuff. I’ve used the RSG pellets that Jackson’s sells, plus a few other ingredients as an experiment,  when I was writing a feature for the magazine about Seago a few years back. It’s time consuming, messy and very smelly, but probably worth it in the long run if you are so inclined. And with a modicum of success I believe, several coats of the magic mix on an MDF board gave me a good ground to work on. The oil paint brushed  on superbly and soaked into the somewhat porous surface making painting a delight! I need to get back to this again… I’ve just bought a tub of W&N gesso, but it’s so thin. I generally add a few spoonfuls of white chalk dust into the mix, which gives me a thicker consistency! Ah… we overlapped Paul, no problem and no harm done! Here’s one I did using the RSG mix…check out the slightly uneven surface and brush marks from brushing on the gesso.

Edited
by Alan Bickley

Alan and Robert I’ve never used oils as you know, but I intrigued with the process when you talk about it . This is obviously a very basic question from someone with no knowledge of the process etc , I believe it sealed the surface but does it  benefit the actual painting, by that I mean will it have a light benefits etc or just acts as sealant . I’m sure it enables the paint to be applied better I’m some way . Sorry to sound dim but it’s certainly a very grey area for me. 
The argument for it is that it's the traditional way to do it - well; yes, so it is, but then they didn't have acrylic at the time, and many things have moved on; and that it's strong - the lead gives it the strength and durability; it's also said to be pleasant to paint on, and Alan confirms that.  One reason why I wouldn't use it, even if I could easily get the lead, is that it is one hell of a faff, and - I don't have a studio: I live and work in a flat, and the stench of it would probably drive the neighbours out (in which there'd be some advantages, but I'd rather not do it this way).  It is also quite dangerous, particularly if you don't have a large space in which to work comfortably and efficiently: what's called "studio hygiene".  You don't want to be cooking lead anywhere near to where you're preparing food. There are people who obtain sheets of lead - they can still be got, as can lead paint, but at great cost and considerable inconvenience (don't go stripping the church roof....), cover it with horse dung and vinegar (there are other methods I believe), leave it for months, scrape the white off the sheets, mix it with Linseed oil, cook it in a double boiler ...  yes, there are people that determined to get the real thing, and I've every respect for them, but even thinking about all that makes me tired: it's not practical for me, or I imagine for most of us: and there are hazards throughout the process.  Not insurmountable ones, but not ones I've ever felt like taking on. However: if you out there make Flake White, whiting for canvas, stack lead, by all means let me know, because I'd certainly buy it if you've already taken the risk; I wouldn't encourage anyone to start, though - I don't want to  be responsible for anyone's ill-health.   There are guides in old  books, and probably online, but - I'd suggest you read, and  be amazed, but otherwise steer clear.
PS - Great painting from Alan  Bickley!
Showing page 2 of 2